Brakes, Leaks, Noise, Alignments and Batteries!

We just serviced a 2002 Chevrolet Suburban at 180k. the Customers request for service was:

     1] Inspect some noises
     2] Inspect cooling system and fluids
     3] State Inspection
     4] ABS and Red brake light on
     5] Make ready for a long trip

Having 180k on the odometer means we could have a few things. A local large Automotive Service chain had recently serviced this vehicle, including an alignment.

Initially we inspected overall vehicle condition. First was a scan to check for codes in the Computer, and all was good. Next the Fluid check found low power steering fluid and coolant, Engine Oil level and Transmission Oil levels were fine and the fluid condition were good. Initial impression was that starting was good, ABS and Red Brake lights were on, no CEL. Tires were in great condition and tread was about 1/3 of new, plenty to keep a family safe on the highway!
Test drive found brakes were squeaky, and the front suspension making clunking sounds. Visually inspecting brakes we found the pads were high quality AM [After Market] pads, and all in good condition. No engine or transmission oil leaks where observed, which on this vehicle for this mileage is Exceptional! Rear Shocks were extremely poor, no leaking, just no shock power! And a Tail Light bulb was out on the passenger side. Fluid levels were all acceptable with Coolant and Power Steering a bit low. That is where the fun began!

First we checked for Power Steering leaks.
Gearbox was dry at all points. The pressure hose had wet dirt built up around one of the hose crimps, and the front seal of the pump had a similar build up also. We recommended a hose and a pump replacement.

To find the ABS light on is a common problem with Chevrolet Trucks.
Primary problem is there is a relay in the EBCM [Electronic Brake Control Module] that gets stuck on and the motor will run continuously. The customer had removed the fuse to stop the continuous run of the motor, but that had the effect of turning on the Red Brake light. After we reinstalled it, we disconnected the motor and the Red Brake light was out making the vehicle inspectable.
Normally a module replacement on this would be over $1100, we are looking into some alternatives so watch for future posts regarding ABS systems.

Next we inspected the low coolant, and confirmed that coolant has been added occasionally.
Belt condition was needy, the belts were cracking all the way to the bottom of the V's. Pressure testing did not yield a single drip, or a loss of pressure; but coolant traces were clearly visible below the weep hole on the Water Pump indicating that leakage had happened in the recent past. Coolant was clean and had a good smell. We recommended replacement of the Water Pump and Thermostat, along with new belts.
Now it was time to inspect the Front Suspension. During the test drive we observed a clunking in the front. On the lift, we inspect all the joints, and we found them to be in good condition. The Sway Bar links were worn but not the source of the noise we observed. But we found the bolts for the Upper Control Arm on the passenger side loose at the bushings! We tightened the mounting bolts and all noises were gone! Afterwards we replaced the Sway Bar links too. No more rattles in the front system!

Next we prepared for Texas State Inspection.
Checked wiper blades and found in good shape. High beam light on the IP good. All lights on the exterior were great except the right Tail Light. After replacing the Tail Light bulb, we found the Emergency Brake non functional. Texas Law requires the Emergency Brake to be able to hold the vehicle with moderate acceleration applied, and this was not happening! Cables being good and attached, we observed excessive cable movement on the passenger brake. Removal of the rotor and inspection of the Emergency Brake hardware found a missing part that must have been lost during the last service! Not sure how long ago, the customer did not remember, but it had been over a year, so somebody passed it without an Emergency Brake! With the missing pin installed, the Emergency Brake function has been restored!
Remember we had the Red Brake light on initially, with the fuse out, it was always on. We cannot have the Red Brake light on for State Inspection. After the fuse was replaced, which turns off the Red Brake light, then we unplugged the motor which has its own plug at the module. This stops the motor from continuous running, will make the ABS light always on, and the Red Brake light to be off. A yellow ABS light will not fail inspection in Texas.
And the results? State inspection Passed.
Shocks were replaced also at this time, and WOW, what a difference in ride! The ole Burb went from bouncy to firm! And now that there was no further clunking from the front suspension, the ride was great!

Battery service was a interesting too.
First we checked for Alternator output in amperage and volts and A/C voltage along with Battery testing and the Alternator was in good condition at 110 amps output and 14.5 volts with no A/C [that means the diodes are good]. While starting was good, the battery load output showed to be below specifications even though the battery was two years old! Charging system was stress tested with our SnapOn Carbon Pile Tester which puts a real load on the system, and even though the Alternator health was good, the battery was in a weakened condition.  In order to ensure that no old Battery problems would arise on the upcoming trip, we replaced the Battery now.
Marginal Batteries are something we are seeing more often. It has been our experience that Batteries are not lasting properly, even well respected name brands. Perhaps it is the Texas Summers... Also many consumers do not realize that Battery's still require service, checking water, cleaning terminals and such, but that was not the problem here.
So, it is our recommendation that your Battery and Charging System is inspected at least twice a year. We recommend Spring and Fall, or whenever the temperatures start to change alot.
At TASC, we happily perform this service at no charge.

Needless to say, the simple job became a bit more involved.
Our Priority is always Safety, then Drivability. Our customer had this to say;

     Suburban is great... like driving a new one with the 

     front end being so tight now and the new shocks

     thanks
  
     h

Thank you HK, and have a great trip!

Mike and Kenny

More Than Meets the EYE

Recently we serviced a 2003 Honda Civic. Primary problem was a failed radiator that would leak out water as fast as you pour it in. Often times, cooling system service can be more complicated that a simple leak.

A good tech will always ask WHAT, WHERE, WHY.
Why did the part fail? What could have caused the failure? Where could other problems be related to the failure? And most importantly, are there any problems that may be a result from the failure?

Our first concern was not for the radiator, but damage that may result from a cooling system failure.
We were asked if it could be driven. The customer reported the gauge DID go into the HOT range. The vehicle had failed on the road, but made it home. We have serious concerns about Hot Hondas. The tend to warp heads and blow gaskets!
Times are getting tougher financially for a lot of folks, so I was inquired as to if the car could be driven safely, as it could save the tow bill.

Please note: Driving with a coolant leak can do major damage! Driving an engine with abnormally high engine temperature can do damage. If you are NOT familiar with how important it is to keep the engine cool, DO NOT DRIVE. Serious damage can follow, and cooling systems are CRITICAL to engine operation. If you question at all whether you can safely make it to the shop, DO NOT DRIVE.

I had the customer verify how the vehicle ran. Given it started smoothly, idled immediately without any roughness or abnormal operation; the decision was made to limp it to the shop. I asked that in order to be extra safe; after driving one mile, stop the vehicle and allow it to cool. Then make sure some water was added to compensate for any lost [it was a big leak], and allow the heat to soak out of critical components. Again, dangerous condition, opening a hot radiator, if you do not know to be very careful, DO NOT OPEN A HOT RADIATOR. Temperature gauge was watched carefully, and temperature never went over normal. A short time later, he pulled into the shop.
Attempted limp results were a successful trip to TASC.

First thing we do was to check for exhaust gas in the cooling system. Because of emission services in our area, exhaust gas analysis something we do regularly. Our CO standard is anything over 50ppm is questionable. We have seen vehicles with over 100ppm that run fine for years. [my techs car for example, 7 years!]
Many things can affect these readings including head surfaces with a higher that specified roughness average [ RA].   New gasket technologies require special surface preparation. Consequently, resurfacing in the aftermarket must be specified by the repair shops, and unfortunately, many do not check or demand the correct RA numbers, or have the tools to check it. You can't overstate how important it is to have a good machinist when remanufacturing cylinder heads! Back to the repair...

Once repairs had begun, we found the failure. The lower seam on the copper/brass radiator had opened. Also the core was rotted and the fins were falling out. Hoses were in good condition and the radiator was replaced. We also found a little damage to the lower radiator mounts due to something hitting underneath the car prior to the failure. Potentially it could have been a cause, but the parts were old, so we ensured that they were properly straightened to support the new radiator.

Ken likes to use a vacuum test prior to filling the radiator. This test device ensures that there are no further leaks in the system. It also helps to ensure that coolant fills all the voids found on Honda vehicles. After filling, the vehicle is run; thermostat is checked to be opening properly, and cooling system pressure is watched, and fan operation is verified. After a trip around the block, the customer was called and the vehicle delivered.

Lord willing, we will not see any further problems.
Overheating is a serious event. If it is possible, do not drive, but tow the vehicle. I have seen serious damage due to overheating, and a tow could prevent hundreds + in repair costs. Overheating damage must be carefully inspected. Make sure your repair shop checks everything so you don't spend more money than you plan for.